A Hike Through Kaolin Wash in Valley of Fire

By TOM GARRISON

Valley of Fire State Park is a perfect spot for a winter hike.My wife Deb and I have hiked more than 25 different hikes in Nevada—not bad considering we have never resided in the Silver State. We previously explored Valley of Fire three times and had hiked most of the officially recognized trails. But the partially cross-country hike through Kaolin Wash and Pastel (or Pink) Canyon winds through wonderful geological displays on an unmarked trail. It rivals the well-known and nearby Fire Wave Trail, which is also the starting point for this hike.

The Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada’s oldest state park, was dedicated in 1935. The Park, covering approximately 42,000 acres, derives its name from the many red Navajo sandstone formations formed about 150 million years ago that appear to be on fire when reflecting the sun’s rays.

Although there is not much water in the Park, the effects of water and wind erosion are everywhere. Prehistoric users of the Valley included the Basket Maker people and the later Anasazi farmers from the nearby fertile Moapa Valley. Examples of petroglyphs (rock art) left by these ancient people are found at several sites in the Park.

Since it is low desert (elevation varies between 2,000 and 2,600 feet), the winters are mild—just what is needed to escape St. George’s somewhat colder winter days.

My wife Deb and I left St. George early on a chilly (temperature in the high 40s) mid-December morning and headed south on Interstate 15. Our first stop was the East Entrance Station to pay the $10 per vehicle fee. The temperature during our time at the Park was in the mid-50s to low 60s.

Take the time to stop at the large Visitor Center containing many informative displays. Learn about the early Native Americans who visited this area, the geology that produced the red rock formations, and the critters inhabiting the Park and surrounding land.

Upon entering the Park we drove west on Highway 169 and turned right (north) onto White Domes Road, 3.3 miles from the east Park entrance. Our destination was Parking Area #3 (on the left or west side of the road), 4.7 miles from the Highway 169 turnoff. This is the trailhead for Fire Wave Trail leading to Kaolin Wash and Pastel Canyon.

Arriving at the trailhead at 9:30 am, there were few other hikers. About two hours later the parking lots were half full. If you value the solitude that often accompanies desert hiking, I suggest an early morning adventure avoiding the crowds.

Fire Wave Trail, elevation 2,000 feet, begins on the east (right) side of the road across from Parking Area #3. The first 2/3 of the trail is mostly loose sand following the base of a monolithic red sandstone ridge. The last third is over exposed sandstone slickrock reminiscent of, of course, a solidified orange and white fire wave.

Continuing southeast on the slickrock we came upon Kaolin Wash (about ¾ of a mile from the trailhead), running east-west, and bordered by low slickrock slopes. Deb and I entered the wash and proceeded upstream (to the right, southwest toward the road). Soon, within 1/4 mile, the wide wash narrowed into Pastel Canyon. True to its name, the walls of the 100 yard long slot canyon radiate soft shades of pink, yellow, orange, and white hues—a stunning palette of colors and abstract shapes with lots of stripy sections.

The canyon ends prior to crossing White Domes Road. We crossed the road and continued northwest in the Kaolin Wash drainage. The terrain is similarly-colored to Pastel Canyon, and within ¼ mile of crossing the road is another, but shorter and twisty, slot canyon. Soon after exiting the second slot, Kaolin Wash meets White Domes Trail (there is a prominent trail marker).

We turned right (north) onto White Domes Trail between two massive sandstone ridges. It is uphill, but there are rock steps on the steepest sections. Continuing north in loose sand, we soon passed the White Domes parking area. Less than ¼ mile past the parking lot we headed right (east) cross country toward a clearly visible small arch on a red sandstone ridge. Once on the ridge, Parking Area #3 came into view and Deb and I scurried down the ridge to our car.

Valley of Fire is like a giant treasure chest—Kaolin Wash and Pastel Canyon are two of the best treasures inside.

This is a well-worth-it day trip, especially in winter. Perhaps you have a bit of the explorer’s gene and accept the challenge of a partially off trail hike into areas with few park visitors. It is an easy 2.6 mile loop trail, with less than a 200 feet elevation change, that took us about 1 1/2 hours to complete.

Tom Garrison is a resident of St. George, Utah and an avid hiker for more than 25 years. His latest book, “Hiking Southern Nevada,” was awarded 2nd place in the non-fiction category of the League of Utah Writers Published Book Contest. The book is available at Amazon.com. Tom can be reached at: tomgarrison98@yahoo.com.